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Section 3 Retrograde!

Getting ready to start!

Introducing Retrograde

Retrograde Section 1

Retrograde Section 2

Section 3

Retrograde  

Rounds 1-14

Color A (serpent)

Color B (Centaur)

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

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Stitches

  • dc

  • X-st (Click for photo tutorial )

  • V-st (see stitches) –** link in final copy of pattern

  • V-st corner (see notes) **link in final copy

  • bphdc

  • Hdc

  • Sc

  • Bpsc

  • sp

Notes

  1. This section will create five rounds of the X-st.

  2. Round 1 has modified corners. The corner is worked over the three sc corner stitches from the last round of section 2. Dc in first sc, (dc, ch-2, dc) in center of corner, dc in last stitch. **photo tutorial in final copy

  3. Starting at the last corner made from Section 2, skipping corner stitches, and sc, place marker at the 37th bpsc.

  4. Start your round in any multiple of (3+1) **ask group for help. Final copy to have detailedin notes.

  5. X- st can start in any even chain space, or the last sc of the side.

  6. (DC, ch-1, Sk-1) sections start in the corner space, or in the first sc of any (sc 2) repeat

  7. Round 11 can start in the top of a X leg (DC)

  8. The border round with the (bphdc, hdc, bphdc) repeat varies from Section 1. It does not have the extra two hdcs between v-st.

  9. Odd rounds are counted from the right corner. Even rounds are counted from the left corner. Feel free to ask the group when needing help with counting.

  10. Notes in italics are only notes, not stitches.

  11. Count the sides of every round, every time. Or be okay with frogging. Or asking for help making mistakes work without frogging.

Pattern

Round 1(A):  ch-2, dc into stitch with stitch marker *see notes 3 + 4*, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 14 times, ch-1,sk-1, dc *see note 2* [ (dc, ch-2, dc) in center sc, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 27 times, ch-1, sk-1, dc]  3 times, (dc, ch-2, dc) in center sc, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 12 times, ch-1, sk-1, dc, sl-st to first dc, ch-1 (56 dc, 28 ch-1/ dc, ch-2, dc)

Round 2 (B): ch-3, **start X stitch in 9th skipped  stitch from the left*, (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 14 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 9 times, sc 2. (14  X-st, 30 sc/ 3 sc)

Round 3 (A): *start in the middle of the first sc of the 7th X-st* ch-3, dc into first sc inside X-st, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 15 times, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 29 times, ch-1) three times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 13 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to first dc made, pull long loop. (58 dc, 30 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 4 (B): ch-3, *start X stitch in the first leg of the x-stitch from round 2, see note 5) (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 15 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 10  times, sc 2. (15 X-st, 32 sc/ 3 sc)

**Rounds 5-10 are repeats of Rounds 3 + 4A***

Round 5 (A): *start in the first sc between 7th and 8th X, see note 6 * ch-3, dc 2 (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 16 times, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 31 times, ch-1) three times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 14 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to first dc made, pull long loop. (62 dc, 32 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 6 (B): *start X-st in the first leg of the fourth X from previous *, (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 16 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 11 times, sc 2. (16  X-st, 34 sc/ 3 sc)

Round 7 (A): *start in the first sc in the middle of the 8th X *  ch-3, dc into first sc inside X-st, dc,  (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 17 times, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 33 times, ch-1) three times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 15 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to first dc made, pull long loop. (66 dc, 34 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 8 (B): ch-3, *start x-st in the first leg of fourth X stitch from previous round*, (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 17 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 12 times, sc 2. (17 X-st, 36 sc/ 3 sc)

Round 9 (A): *start in the first sc between 8th and 9th X*,  ch-3, dc 2, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 18 times, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 35 times, ch-1) three times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 16 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to first dc made, pull long loop. 70 dc, 36 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 10(B): ch-3, *start x-st in the first leg of fourth X from previous round*, (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 18 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 13 times, sc 2. (18  X-st, 38 sc/ 3 sc)

Round 11 (A): *start v-st in the first leg of the 9th  X, see note 7* ch-2, (v-st, sk-2) 19 times, v-st, sk-3, [v-st corner, sk-3, (v-st, sk-2) 36 times, sk-2, v-st, sk-3] 3 times, (v-st, sk-2) 16 times, sk-2, sl-st to first v-st, pull long loop. (36 v-st/ v-st corner)

Round 12 (B): *start hdc on the first leg of the 10th v-st, not including the corner stitches, or the first left of any—st * ch-2, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc in ch-1 sp, bphdc around second leg of v-st) 11 times, [3 sc in ch-2 space, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc in ch-1 sp, bphdc around second leg of v-st) 38 times] 3 times, 3sc in ch-2 sp, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc in ch-1 sp, bphdc around second leg of v-st) 27 times, sl-st to first bphdc. (38hdc, 76 bphdc/ 3sc)

Round 13 (A): ch-2, bphdc 63, ch-1, sk first sc of corner, (3sc in corner sc, ch-1, sk- last sc of corner, bphdc 114, ch-1, sk last sc of corner) 3 times, 3sc in corner, bphdc 51, sl-st to first hdc, (114 bphdc, 2 ch-1/ 3 sc)

Round 14 (B): ch-1, bpsc 33, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in first corner sc, (3 sc in center sc, sc in last corner sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 114, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in last corner sc) three times, 3sc in center sc, sc in last corner sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 81, sl-st to first bpsc. (114 bpsc, 4 sc/ 3 sc)

       END OF SECTION 3

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Retrograde Section 2

Section 2
Retrograde

If you’d like a print friendly version for a small fee you can pick it up on my Etsy shop.

Color A

Color B

Stitch Marker

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

Stitches

  • ch

  • V-stitch (see Stitches)

  • V-stitch corner (see Stitches )

  • bphdc

  • Hdc

  • bpsc

  • sl-st

Notes

  1. If work becomes wavy go down a hook size or two

  2. Place stitch marker at the 24th sc from the center sc on Round 17 of Section 1

  3. If your join is off, you can start your V-st in any space that is a multiple of 3 (3,6,9,12,15,etc) starting your count on the stitch after the center sc of the corner.

  4. There will be 5 Rounds of V-st

  5. You’ll be working v-st into the ch-1 space of previous v-st

As alway, if you find yourself struggling reach out to min my Facebook group Shelby Shea’s Stitches CAL

If you are new to the pattern start here Introducing Retrograde

Section One can be found here Retrograde Section 1

Section 2

Color A

Color B

Stitch Marker

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

Stitches

Notes

  1. If work becomes wavy go down a hook size or two

  2. Place stitch marker at the 24th sc from the corner sc on Round 17 of Section 1

  3. If your join is off, you can start your V-st in any space that is a multiple of 3 (3,6,9,12,15,etc) starting your count on the stitch after the center sc of the corner.

  4. There will be 5 Rounds of V-st

  5. You’ll be working v-st into the ch-1 space of previous v-st

Pattern

Round 1 (A): Pull back loop, ch 2, v-st where the stitch marker is, (sk 2, v-st) 8 times, sk 2, [v-st corner, (sk 2, v-st) 16 times, sk 2] 3 times, v-st corner,  (sk 2, v-st) 7 times, join with a sl-st to first  v-st. Pull long loop ( 16 v-st / v-st corner)

Round 2 (B): pull back loop, ch 2, v-st into 13th v-st from previous round, v-st into the next 4 v-st, (v-st corner into ch-2 sp, v-st into the next 18 v-st) three times, v-st corner into ch 2 space, v-st into next 13 v-st, sl-st to first v-st. Pull long loop (18 v-st / v-st corner)

Rounds 3-5 :  Continue alternating colors and repeat the v-st pattern. V-stitches per side, not counting corners,  are as follows- Round 1 (16), Round 2 ( 18), Round 3 (20), Round 4 (22), Round 5 (24)

Round 6 (B) : ch 2, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc into ch-1 space,  bphdc around second leg of v-st) 9 times, [3 sc into ch-2 sp (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc into ch-1 space,  bphdc around second leg of v-st) 26 times], 3 sc, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc into ch-1 space,  bphdc around second leg of v-st), 17 times, sl-st to first v-st, pull long loop. (26 hdc, 52 bphdc / 3sc)

Round 7 (A) pull loop back, ch-1, bphdc 41, ch-1, sk sc,  (3sc in corner sc, ch-1, sk sc, bphdc 78, ch-1, sk sc) 3 times, 3sc in corner, bphdc 36, sl-st to first hdc, ch-1, pull long loop (78 bphdc, 2 ch-1/ 3 sc)

Round 8 (B): Pull back loop, bpsc across to ch-1 sp, sc into ch-1 sp, sc in sc, (3 sc in corner sp, sc  in sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 78, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in sc) three times, 3 sc in corner sp, sc in sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc across, sl-st to first sc. ( 78 bpsc, 4 sc / 3sc

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Retrograde Section 1

If you’d like a printer friendly version for a small charge you can grab it here. Section one

Section 1
Retrograde

Rounds 1-15

Color A (Centaur)

Color B (Serpant) X color

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

Stitches

Notes

  1. When switching between active yarns you may choose to pull a long loop, add a quick locking stitch marker, or both.
  2. There will be some pull to your X-st rounds. This will be corrected through out the blanket. If you feel your pull is too much, change out the dc to tc, or go up a hook size.
  3. When working into the join of the previous round, especially with the X-st, it will feel bulky and awkward.
  4. For X-st rounds starting at Round 3, all dc will be worked into previous round sc. No dc will be worked into in these rounds.
  5. Chains at the beginning to not count as stitches
  6. Stitch counts are per side, not per round
  7. You can substitute ch-4 loop for the starting magic ring

Pattern

Round 1(A): MR (the following stitches are done in the MR) sc, ch-2, (4dc, ch-2) 4 times, sl-st into first dc (4 dc / ch-2)               

Round 2(A): ch-1, (sc, ch-2, dc), dc, ch-1, sk-dc, [(2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into ch-2 corner space, ch-1, sk-dc, dc 2, ch-1, sk-dc] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into ch-2 corners space, ch-1, sl-st to first dc. Ch-1 and pull a long loop , attach a quick locking stitch maker for extra security when not using the yarn. (2 dc, 2 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 3(B): attach in the next corner stitch with a sc, 2sc in corner space, sc 2, X-st (Photo Tutorial), sc 2, [ (3 sc in corner space), sc 2, X-st, sc 2] 2 times, sc 2, **when working the next X-st, move passive yarn behind the working yarn, work the first sc into the top of the first dc, making the join on your right. The 2nd leg of the X will be a bulk and awkward fit. Don’t worry, it’ll hide itself in the work.** X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull up long loop. (1 X-st, 4 sc/ 3sc)

Round 4(A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), dc into first sc inside X-st, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1,  **you will be skipping the joined space. make sure passive is behind your active work** [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sk-1] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3 sc corner, ch-1 sk-1, dc 2, join with a sl-st to first dc. (6 dc, 4 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2 dc)

Round 5 (B): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), sc in first dc in corner, sc, [3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 2 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3sc into corner space, sc 2, X-st, sc into the dc of the join stitch **the join will be to the right of your work, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, sc, X-st, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull long loop. (2 X-st, 6 sc/ 3sc)

Round 6 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), dc into sc between the X-stitches, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, dc into sc of join **the join will move to the right of the work, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc, ch-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc into middle of 3 sc corner), (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 5 times, ch-1), (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in middle of 3sc corner, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2)] 3 times, ch-1, sl-st to first dc, ch-1 pull long loop. (10 dc, 6 ch-1/ 2 dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 7 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 3 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, sc 2, X-st, sc 2, X-st **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of X-st will be in the join space, sc into the top of the dc**, sc 2, sl-st to first dc, ch-1, pull long loop (3 X-st, 8 sc/ 3sc)

Round 8 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 chains total), dc into first sc of X-st, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1 **skip joining space, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 7 times, ch-1, sk-1] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sl-st to join to first dc, ch-1, pull long loop. (14 dc, 8 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2 dc)

Round 9 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) 4 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 3 times, **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of sc 2 will be in the dc if the join space** sc 2, X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull long loop

Round 10 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), dc into sc between the X-stitches, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 2 times, ch-1, sk- join dc, dc into sc after join **be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1,  [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc into middle of 3 sc corner), (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 9 times, ch-1, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in middle of 3sc corner, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sl-st to first dc, ch-1 pull long loop.

Round 11 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) 5 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 2 times, sc 2 **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of X-st will be in the join space, sc into the top of the dc**, X-st, sc 2, X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first X-st,, ch-1, pull long loop

Round 12 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 chains total), dc into first sc of X-st, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sk-1, **skip joining space, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 11 times, ch-1, sk-1] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 5 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to join to first dc, ch-1, pull long loop

Round 13 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) 6 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 3 times, **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of sc 2 will be in the dc if the join space** sc 2, X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull long loop

**Continue to be aware of keeping the passive yarn behind while working passed it. There will not be any more written reminders**

Round 14 (A): pull back loop, ch-1 (2 chains total), v-st into second leg of third X-st, (sk-2, v-st) 6 times, sk -3, [v-st corner, sk-3, (v-st, sk-2) 11 times, v-st, sk-3] 3 times, v-st corner, sk-3, (v-st, sk-2) 5 times, sl-st to first v-st, ch-1, pull long loop (12 v-st / v- st corner)

Round 15 (B): ** hdc are all worked in ch-1 space unless noted otherwise ** pull back loop, ch-1, bphdc on first leg of v-st, hdc, bpdc 2, hdc, bphdc, hdc in space between last v-st and corner st, bphdc, hdc, bphdc,  [ 3sc in ch-2 corner, bphdc, hdc, bphdc, hdc in space between corner v-st and first v-st, (bphdc, hdc, bphdc) 12 times, hdc in space between last v-st and corner v-st, bphdc,hdc, bphdc] 3 times, 3sc in ch-2 corner space, bphdc, hdc, bphdc, hdc in space between corner v-st and first v-stitch, (bphdc, hdc, bphdc) 10 times, sl- st to first hdc**do not work bphdc around chains, only around dc posts** (16 hdc, 28 bphdc/ 3 sc)

Round 16 (A): pull loop back, ch-1, bphdc 25, ch-1, sk-sc  (3sc in corner sc, ch-1, sk-sc, bphdc 44, ch-1, sk-sc) 3 times, 3sc in corner, bphdc 19, sl-st to first hdc, ch-1, pull long loop (44 bphdc, 2 ch-1/ 3 sc)

Round 17 (B): pull back loop, ch-1, bpsc 9, sc in ch-1 sp, sc, (3 sc in center sc, sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 44, sc in ch-1 sp, sc) three times, 3sc in center sc, sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 36, sl-st to first bpsc. (44 bpsc, 4 sc/ 3 sc)

       END OF SECTION 1

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Introducing Retrograde

 

Retrograde Notes

Materials:

  • 3 Cakes Mandala by Lion Brand or 1700 yards of sport weight yarn
  • 2 Big Scoop Ice Cream by Lion Brand or 1700 yards of sport weight yarn
  • Crochet hooks (3 sizes) 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5 mm – or sizes to obtain flatness
  • Scissors
  • Needle to weave ends
  • Moveable stitch markers (optional)

 

Notes:

  1. Both colors are worked continuously, if you like cut the yarn each round and start in a corner just start any of the directions at a corner space.
  2. For the passive yarn pull a long loop to keep from stitches coming unravelled. You can use a stitch marker in place if you prefer.
  3. When working over the passive yarn, keep the loop and the tail behind your active work.
  4. Keep the tension loose with X-st, if you find your work is pulling you can either swap out those DCs for TCs, or go up on hook sizes.
  5. X-st sections are used with your biggest hook.
  6. V-st sections are sued with your smallest hook.
  7. The transition between the sections is hooked with your medium hook.
  8. If you notice your work is pulling in go up one or two hook sizes until it lays flat.
  9. If you notice your work is wavy, go down one or two hook sizes.
  10. It’s worth ripping out and finding your hook sweet spot. Your work will lay flat and you’ll enjoy it more. 🙂

 

Definitions

  • **…..** – italicized notes between the ** are notes about that specific part, and aren’t steps
  • MR- magic ring
  • SC- single crochet
  • Ch- chain
  • sl-st – slip stitch
  • MC- main color
  • CC- contrasting color
  • X-st – X stitch (explained below)
  • V-st – V Stitch (explained below)
  • bphdc – back post half double crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • bpsc – back post single crochet
  • sp- space

 

Stitches

X-Stitch – 4 stitch pattern as described below

(Use either dc or trc depending on your stitching style. It might be better for tighter crocheters to

consider using tc here. Skip 2 dc stitches in previous round, keeping yarn in front create a loose dc into the second

stitch that was skipped two rounds back (NOTE: the stitch is made in the “gap” from the sk st and ch 1 of

the previous round), return back up to current round and sc in next 2 st (the two dc that were skipped at

start of X-Stitch), create a loose dc back across into the first stitch that was skipped two rounds back

(making an “X” with the two dc stitches)

(NOTE: You will have to insert your hook from “back to front” to catch the top of the stitch in

the lower round and then yo and pull it back up to finish off your dc.)

 

X-st photo tutorial

A video tutorial will be available soon!

V-stitch (dc,ch-1, dc) in the same space

V-st corner (v-st, ch-2, v-st)

 

 

Related Posts:

Section 1

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Getting ready to start!

A multi stitch blanket to wrap up with as the weather changes. Use tips throughout the pattern to choose different weight yarns. The unique X-st provides an intricate change of pace to our usual stitches. Easy enough for beginners to master, and challenging enough to stretch the skills of an experienced crochet artist. Join Shelby Shea’s Stitches CAL Facebook group for space to share your work and ask questions. CAL Group

Weekly clues will be released here. After November 15th the posts will no longer be accessible.

I’m am thrilled to see everyone’s creations!

Introducing Retrograde

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Mother’s Day Blanket

For years I have wanted to make a blanket for my Mom. Nothing ever seemed quite good enough. I finally took the challenge head on and started designing one from the resources I have.
I took squares from Jan Eaton’s 200 Crochet Blocks, a join from an online tutorial and a border for Edie Eckman’s Around the Corner.
The blanket turned out soft, elegant and feminine.

Yarn: Vanna’s Choice
Colors: Beige, Pink, Dusty Blue, Dusty Green, Dusty Purple, Oatmeal, Espresso
books: 200 Crochet Blocks by Jan Eaton (order here) and Around The Corner by Edie Eckmans (order here)
Join: Flat- Braid no hook out method (tutorial here)

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Block 189:Willow- Dusty Blue/ Beige

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Block 189: Willow- Pink/ Beige

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Block 189: Willow- Dusty Green/ Beige

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Block 19: Lacy Cross- Oatmeal

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Join- Espresso

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Border: (will get the number soon)- Dusty Purple / Espresso

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What goes into making a blanket: part one

What exactly goes into making a blanket ? Most know yarn is involved, maybe a couple of those pointed sticks, but what does it really mean to make a blanket.

I am going to use a recent baby blanket I made for a co-worker as an example. As soon as I hear someone is expecting my brain starts planning. I wonder what colors they will use for their baby. Will they find out the gender? What is their general style? I start researching patterns for possibilities.

Colors are next. I was lucky enough to see a picture of the nursery and was able to decide on these colors.

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Now that I have the colors I can finalize the pattern. I used a mix of parents style and nursery theme. I picked Promise Petals, a free pattern at Ravelry.

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Now the fun starts. I decided the final blanket would be a 4 X 3 quilt style. I cranked out 12 squares in a couple weeks. For this square it made more sense to make it in an assembly line.

Center flowers first

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I didn’t snap pictures of the squares with the background added. Each full square took roughly an hour to make.

Next I joined the squares. Which is another two or so hours.

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I picked out a pretty border. Another couple of hours. Then it’s ready for the wash.

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Not the best picture, but here she is all done. Ready for Baby Girl Munson to make her debut in a few weeks.

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My blankets are, usually, one of a kind, and customizable. I don’t follow one specific blanket pattern , but pull from several resources.

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Where in the world have I been?

I guess I am not so great at this blogging thing.

I ended the 2012 year making some of my most favorite blankets for some of my most favorite people, a few baby and sibling blankets, some comfortghans, a few hats, a few scarves, and I continued to practice knitting.

Here are some of my adventures. Please excuse the Instagram snapshots. My goal for this year is to take better, actual, pictures. 🙂

For one of my BFF’s I made a log cabin style blanket. It has been one of my favorite finished blankets to date. I still think about making another one just about every week. Here is a picture without the border.

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Another BFF now has one of my favorite blankets to make : the Babette. I have made about 6 of these now. I made this one in fun, dramatic colors to match her personality.

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There are a few great things that happen in the online yarn community that is Ravelry.com. One is swapping handmade items. A group I belong in swaps between 12-20 squares in a coordinating theme. In one of my previous posts I talked about the blue lagoon swap. The second great thing is something that happens along side of the Olympics. People set up their goals and work during the length of the events starting with opening ceremonies. This year I decided to take my 20 blue squares and turn them into 3 lap-sized blankets for my husband and his cousins. I finished in time!

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I made my first sibling blankets for a family I adore. Both Daisy square blankets. I only have a picture of the older sister’s blanket. The baby sister’s blanket was a 3 X 3 of daisies in more muted colors.
The other sibling blankets I made were stars. The big sister got bright girlie colors. Baby brother got soft, sweet boy colors. I didn’t get a picture of these before I gifted them.

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In my goal to make blankets for all of my family, I made my sister a blanket that matched the tones in her living room. Seriously, my pictures suck.

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I fell in love with infinity scarves this year. I made a whole stash before the morning sickness kicked in. Most I have gifted out.

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And this was another swap blanket for my favorite sister-in-law.

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This year I hope to make a bunch of new blankets for people to love.

Follow me on Instagram for (probably too many) progress shots of my many on going projects. That is including Baby, coming August 2013. 🙂 ShelbySheasStitches

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LP 2 swap

Here are the squares I made for the Lily Pulitzer themed swap. I asked for solid colored blocks in the same theme. I made a beautiful blanket for my little sister, which I will post about soon!

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My first pattern!

With the help of some wonderful women, I have my first official pattern named “KISS-FIST”.

Where does KISS-FIST come from? If you make a fist then kiss the back of your hand it means something in American Sign Language. Roughly, it’s the concept of loving something that goes beyond just the word love.

In any event, here is the pattern. Link it to your Ravelry page if you have one. I would love to see your work!

KISS-FIST by Shelby Shea

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