Dragon Scale CAL Pattern

logoWell it’s basically December. Christmas music has been playing since November 1st… yup we are THAT family. If it helps balance things out, I HATE decorating for holidays. Anyhooooo. Let’s start this off with a great gift idea. When I’m using the lighter weight yarns I can finish a set in just about 6 hours. During my busiest time I was cracking two and half sets a day.  For a printer friendly version Printer Friendly Version

Check out your Local  Yarn Shop or Website (Etsy is great), and splurge on a nicer hank of yarn for a lovely gift. My favorites are Madeline Tosh (check out that purple below!)  and Zauberballs.

MAD-TMLG.WINOFO
Madeline Tosh, Merino Light Glitter, Wino Forever

If you’d like an overview of yarns to help pick check out the last blog post Dragon scale gloves yarn overview . Feel free to post pictures of your stash, and I’ll help you find the perfect yarn!

mad tosh
Up to Round 21 using Madeline Tosh, Merino Light

Since I’m awful at transitional phrases here’s the pattern!

 

Materials

  • Knit Picks Chroma Fingering (396 yards) – Other yarns make great gloves, I just don’t know the exact yardage needed for each set. 
  • 4.5mm Hook
  • Needle
  • Scissors
pegasus
Knit Picks, Chroma Fingering, Pegasus

Notes

  • ✴Ch-2 at beginning of round does NOT count as first stitch. 
  • ✴To increase or decrease length of dragon scales adjust by adding or removing both repeat rounds. 
  • ✴Before starting Round 1 close up the circle by using the starting tail. Weaving in the tail will keep it out of your way. 
  • ✴Adjust rounds 21-43 to match the desired arm length. 
  • ✴If the arm ends up too tight do not decrease in round 20. If the arm is too loose, add another decrease in round 22.
  • ✴To increase or decrease length of fingers/scales adjust by adding or removing both repeat rounds. 
  • ✴Round 16 (and beyond) there are not any ch-1 spaces. You’ll be working the spaces between the clusters. Feel free to add the ch-1 space if it works better with your tension. 
sweet baby hobby lobby
Baby Bee, Sweet Delight, Toy Elephant  Marbled

Stitches

Definitions

  • ✴CH – chain
  • ✴FSC- foundation single crochet 
  • ✴SL-ST  – slip stitch
  • ✴DC – double crochet
  • ✴SK- skip
  • ✴SP- space 
  • ✴Scale space – the space in the middle of the scale, in between the first and   last DC 
  • ✴ directions inside of *…* indicate notes, not directions. 
fall colors
Knit Picks, Chroma Fingering

Stitches

  • FSC– ch-2, insert hook into first ch-sp, (yarn over, pull through one loop) X 2, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, insert hook into “v” that is to the left of your active yarn,[ (yarn over, pull through one loop) X 2, yarn over, pull through 2 loops,] repeat until desired number of stitches. 
  • Crocodile stitch– working on the posts of DC stitches- 5 DC on post of first DC from previous round *you’ll be working from top down*, ch-4, sl-st to the side of last DC made, turn work, 5 DC along the post of 2nd DC from previous round *you’ll be working from the bottom up
  • DC2tog– yarn over, insert hook into same space, pull up, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook into next space, pull up, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through all three loops. 
  • ✴ch-4 picot- sc, ch-4, sl-st to side of sc
shawl in a cake
Lion Brand, Shawl in a Cake, Unique Unicorn

PATTERN 

FSC 30, slip stitch to join. Make sure not to twist your yarn when joining

ROUND 1: Ch-2, 2DC in same stitch as joining, (ch-2, sk-2, 2DC )X9 , ch-2 slip stitch in first DC to join [10 2DC clusters, 10 ch-2 sp]

ROUND 2: ch-2, (crocodile stitch, ch-1, sk-2DC) X 5, sl-st joining the ch-2 space from current round to ch-2 sp of previous round. [5 scales, 5 ch-1 sp]

ROUND 3: ch-2, sl-st into middle space of scale, ch-2, (2DC in center of scale, ch-2, 2DC in between 2DC from two previous rows and over ch-1 sp from previous row, ch-2) x 5, sl st to join. [10 DC clusters, 10 ch-2 sp]

ROUND 4:  ch-1, sl-st between 2DC , ch-1, sl-st in ch-2 sp, ch-1, sl-st between 2DC , ch-2,  (crocodile stitch, ch-1, sk-2dc) X 5, sl-st joining the ch-2 space from current round to ch-2 sp of previous round. [5 scales, 5 ch-1 sp]

*Rounds 5-12 are repeats of rounds 3 +4 for a total of 6 rounds of scales. * 

ROUND 5: repeat round 3

ROUND 6: repeat round 4

ROUND 7: repeat round 3

ROUND 8: repeat round 4

ROUND 9: repeat round 3

ROUND 10: repeat round 4

ROUND 11: repeat round 3

ROUND 12:  repeat round 4

ROUND 13: *this round is where the thumb is made* ch-2, 3sc in scale space, ch-1, 3 sc in between 2DC of previous round, ch-1, 3sc in scale sp, fsc 9, sk 2DC, (3sc in scale sp, ch-1, 3sc in between 2DC of previous round, ch-1) X 3, sl st in first sc. [27 sc, 8 ch-1 , 9 fsc]

ROUND 14: ch-2, (3DC in 2nd sc of 3sc) X 3,( sk-2 fdsc, 3DC ) X 3,( 3DC in 2nd SC of 3SC) X 6, sl-st to first DC to join. [12 3DC clusters]

ROUND 15: ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3DC in between 3DC-sp) X 12, sl-st to first DC to join [12 3-DC clusters]

ROUND 16: {decrease round} ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3-DC in between clusters) X 5, DC2tog in next two cluster sp , 2DC in same space, (3-DC in next cluster sp) X 5, sl-st to first DC to join. [11 DC clusters]

ROUND 17: ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2,(3-DC in between clusters) X 11, sl-st to first DC to join. [11 DC clusters]

ROUND 18: {decrease round} ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in space between 3DC clusters , ch-2, (3-DC between clusters) X 5, DC2tog in next two cluster sp, 2-DC in same space, (3-DC in between clusters)X 4, sl-st to first DC to join. [10 DC clusters]

ROUND 19: ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3-DC in between clusters) X 11, sl-st to first DC to join. [10 DC clusters]

ROUND 20: {decrease round}  ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3-DC in between clusters) X 5, DC2tog in next two cluster sp , 2DC in same space, (3-DC in next cluster sp) X 3, sl-st to first DC to join. [9 DC clusters]

ROUND 21-43: ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3-DC in between clusters) X 9, sl-st to first DC to join [9 DC clusters]

ROUND 44 ch-1, (sc, ch-1) in each st across, sl-st to first sc to join [27 sc, 27 ch-1 sp]

ROUND 45 ch-1, (ch-4 picot, ch-1, sc, ch-1) X 12, ch-4 picot, ch-1, sc2tog, sl-st in first sc to join [13 ch-4 picot, 13 ch-1 sp]

Cut yarn and finish off.

grays
Knit Picks, Chroma Fingering, Fog Bank
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Dragon scale gloves yarn overview

I am so excited to start this Crochet-a-long (CAL). I’ve made a lot over the last couple years and worked out the kinks in my pattern. I followed the same hook size and pattern with lots of different yarns. It’s a really versatile pattern. If you have anymore questions please ask! I can talk about yarn for days.

Usually I use Knit Picks Chroma in fingering weight. If I’m going to be real, I hate waiting for shipping and even though $10 in materials isn’t too bad, I’d rather use a half off coupon at Michael’s. I decided to go stash diving and see what I had that would make a nice pair.

I dug through my stash and found some of my favorites from my LYS, or available online, but not much in the way of big box store options. Luckily (or… not ha ha), I have several of each store way to close to my home and work. Here’s some of my thoughts on each one. Again, I have way too many opinions about this stuff. If you are wondering about something, I’ve probably typed it out and deleted three times. Ask away!

LYS or Online

Knit Pick Chroma is my favorite. Their slow color changes make my heart so happy. Single ply yarn adds a certain level of sophistication to any garment, but comes it’s own quirks. The halo around the yarn makes so frogging challenging. When I do have to rip back on a project I use fine tipped scissors and pull slowly. If you find you have to yarn to untangle the knot, it’ll most likely break. The fun color changes make it difficult to have 100% matching gloves. I love the charm of handmade.

This is my second favorite picture from that photo shoot. My wonderful friend met up with my oldest daughter and I at REI. We did a flash photoshoot and hurried out for coffee. My first favorite picture from this shoot is an ALL time favorite picture. I’ll have to show it off on IG. 

A few years ago I went through a Madeline Tosh phase. I’ve lost the ball band, so if you know which one this is feel free to comment! The single ply makes my heart happy. These run around $25 a hank. You will be able to have a set with a very close match. As with Chroma, if you knit tight and need to frog you may rip the yarn. Do a few test pieces before committing to a whole project.

I also went through a Zauberball stage. These ones will be pretty hard to make a matching set, but not impossible . The remnants I had made me wish I had enough to make a set. This is a great yarn for someone who stitches right. It is a four ply and has the fun color changes with an extra durability.

I made a trip to Hobby Lobby, Michael’s, and Joann’s. These all should be enough to make at least one set of gloves.

Hobby Lobby

I picked this up because it was $5, the color was pretty, and it felt soft. The color is stunning in person, and feels soft to the touch. It made a really stiff glove, and felt heavy. I will frog this one and save it for another project.

This was another one that hit the $5 mark, was soft, and had an interesting color patterning. It is super soft, and cozy. It’s thick but not heavy. Keep your eyes open for a finished object this week! 

Michael’s

This yarn is not for a novice crocheter. It’s the cheapest yarn out of the whole lot, $3. It is incredibly light, and slippery. However, it makes a very sweet and delicate piece that wouldn’t be too hot. I’ll frog back and add a few more rounds of scales to the fingers.

Joann’s

I’m in a complicated relationship with Shawl in a cake. I love how pretty the yarn is to look at. Pre-caked yarns feel like I’m cheating. They come in super pretty colors that are bright, and cheery or, cozy winter neutrals. They are $10 but you can easily pick one up with a coupon at any given store. The white is a stiffer yarn, and the color is fluffy. I have no idea how to explain this. But it makes a really neat effect. It’s not so easy on the hands though. I plan to finish these first.

Because I can’t NOT make it Mandala. I started it where the color change is really obvious. For me, I’d need two cakes and make 2 pairs from them. I’d want the colors to kind of match up. I am worried that the color changes are too slow to see much.

Velvet scrunchies

Okay, I admit it. I was skeptical. The 90’s were hard on my socially awkward self. I did love them though. Who didn’t love Blossoms hats? Anyways, not only is my messy bun happier but my wrists were so warm. I’m weird, I know.

Materials:

* Velvet Yarn

* I / 5.5mm crochet hook

*favorite type of hair tie

PATTERN:

Round 1: sc 35 around hair tie. Do not join (35 sc)

Round 2: 2dc in each st around. sl-st to first dc. (70 dc)

Finish off and weave in ends.

Enjoy! Tag #shelbysheasstiches when you finish yours!

Wow! Retrograde CAL a wild ride

I have zero words to express the amount of excitement and gratitude I have surrounding this project. This pattern has been brewing in my head for several years. Thanks to an wonderful group of friends who took me out dancing one night, this would not have happened the way that it did. That is a story for another night.

It started off with a few cakes of yarn. I knew I wanted to make something with, but nothing was coming up strong enough.

Then I remembered my original pattern- Kiss Fist (Kiss Fist- Etsy) that is a single block that can be used in a blanket. I know I wanted to expand on the X-st that I have created. That is where Retrograde was born.

You see, during the months leading up to this my sister-in-law moved in with my husband, myself, and our two young daughters. When days would go sideways our responses was always “Mercury is in retrograde again” and move on with whatever crazy  hit the fan. This blanket IS retrograde. If you don’t frog this pattern once, you’re doing it wrong. I have spent hours, and days, and weeks, ripping back my work. But at the end of it all… I look at this blanket and I’m so in love. If you’re ready for this adventure,  check out the links below. If you’d like to buy a complete, printer friendly, detailed version of the pattern check out the link here Retrograde- Etsy

Feel free to join my facebook group. I do my best to answer any questions that come our way. There are also a lot of wonderfully, supportive people that are willing to troubleshoot with you. Shelby Shea’s Stitches CAL

Come join us!

Getting ready to start!

Introducing Retrograde

Retrograde Section 1

Retrograde Section 2

Section 3 Retrograde!

Section 4 Retrograde

Retrograde Section 5

Border!

Border!

Border

Round 1: (A) ch-1, sc across to last leg of X-st, sk dc, sc 3, (3sc into corner, sc across to last leg of last X-st, sk dc, sc 3) 3 times, 3sc, sc across, sl-st to first sc. (243 sc/ 3sc)

Round 2: (B): *counting from the closest corner to join start in any even sc* (sc, ch-1,  sk-sc) across to corner, (3 sc into corner, (ch-1, sk sc, sc) across to stitch before corner, ch-1, sk sc) 3 times, (ch-1, sk sc, sc) across to first sc. sl-st.  (121 sc, 122 ch-1 sp/ 3sc)

Round 3: (A) ch-1, (sc into ch-1 sp, ch-1, sk-sc) to corner, [3sc in corner sc, (ch-1, sk sc, sc into ch sp) across] three times, sc3 into corner space, (ch-1, sk sc, sc into ch sp) across. sl-st to first sc. 

Rounds 4-9: Repeat Round 3, alternating colors. 

Retrograde Section 5v

Section 5

Notes

  1. Rounds 1 and 2 haver a VERY small difference that you have to pay attention to. The numbers wouldn’t play nicely with me. Overall this will have no effect on your final piece, it will just feel strange doing it. 
  2. Round 1 starts on a multiple of 3,  and you’ll only crochet ONE dc before you start the repeat of (DC 2, ch-1, sk-1) pattern. Each side will have one lonely DC hanging by itself. This is where Round 2 is worked differently too. 
  3. Round 2 starts in any EVEN ch-1 space. 
  4. When you get to the lonely DC, you’ll 2 sc into that stitch. Everything else is worked as usual. 

Pattern

Round 1 (A) : **SEE NOTE # 1 + 2 **  ch-2, dc into multiple of three that is closest to your join, (ch-1, sk-1 sc, dc 2) across to corner stitches, ch-1, skip 1 sc,   [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1 sc, dc 2)  26 times, ch-1, sk-1 bpsc, dc, (ch-1, sk-1 sc, dc 2) 35 times]  3 times, ch-1, sk-1 sc, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into center sc, (ch-1, sk-1 bpsc, dc 2) across to first dc, join with a sl-st. (123 dc, 62 ch sp,/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 2 (B): **SEE NOTES** ch-3, X-st in even ch-1 space closest to join, sc 2, x-st, sc 2 across to corner,  [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 31 times] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) across to first x-st. (31 X-st, 64 sc/ 3 sc)

Round 3 (A): ch-3, dc in sc, dc in next sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) to corner stitches ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 32 times, ch-1) 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) to starting dc, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to first dc made, pull long loop. (126 dc, 66 ch sp,/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 4 (B): (X-st, sc 2) across [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 32 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) to two stitches before first st, sc 2. (32  X-st/ 3 sc)

Rounds 5-20: Repeat rounds 3 + 4 for a total of 10 rounds of X’s. 

X-st counts: R2 31, R4 32, R6 33, R8 34, R10 35, R12 36, R14nts: R2 37, R16 38, R18 39, R20 40.

Section 4 Retrograde

If you are new to this pattern please check out the following sections.

Introducing Retrograde

Retrograde Section 1 (following sections will be available from here).

Section 4 printer friendly

If you’d like a printer friendly version please check out my Etsy shop. There is a minimal fee. Purchase all five sections, then contact me with proof of purchase and you’ll receive the full and final version of Retrograde.

edits: 10/22 to Round 1

Section 4

Retrograde

Color A

Color B

Stitch Marker

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

Stitches

  • ch

  • V-stitch (see Notes)

  • V-stitch corner (see notes)

  • bphdc

  • Hdc

  • bpsc

  • sl-st

Notes

  1. If work becomes wavy go down a hook size or two. I used my smallest hook size for this round.

  2. Starting after the center sc of the corner, start your v-st in a multiple of 3 closest to your join. See notes for explanation of multiples.

  3. There will be 10 Rounds of V-Stitches.

  4. V-st is (dc, ch-1, dc) into same space.

  5. V-st corner is (V-st, ch-2, v-st) into the center corner sc.

  6. You’ll be working v-st into the ch-1 of the previous round.

  7. Round 13 is worked slightly different than the previous “border” rounds. You will not work a sc into the ch-1 space.

  8. I will include the starting stitches, but as long as your ends counts are the same, don’t worry about where you start from.

  9. Inbround 1 you will need to pick one spot on each side to skip 3 stitches instead of 2.

Pattern

Round 1 (A): **replace one sk-2 with a sk-3 per side. See notes #9 **ch-2, v-st (sk 2, v-st) 22 times, sk 2, [v-st corner, (sk 2, v-st) 39 times, sk 2] 3 times, v-st corner,  (sk 2, v-st) 17 times, join with a sl-st to first  v-st. Pull long loop ( 39 v-st / v-st corner)

Round 2 (B): pull back loop, ch 2, v-st into 12th v-st from previous round, v-st into the next 11 v-st, (v-st corner into ch-2 sp, v-st into the next 41 v-st) three times, v-st corner into ch 2 space, v-st into next 29 v-st, sl-st to first v-st. Pull long loop (41 v-st / v-st corner)

Rounds 3-10 :  Continue alternating colors and repeat the v-st pattern. V-stitches per side, not counting corners,  are as follows- Round 1 (39), Round 2 ( 41), Round 3 (43), Round 4 (45), Round 5 (47), Round 6 (49), Round 7 (51), Round 8 (53), Round 9 (55), Round 10 (57).

Round 11(A) : ch 2, **start at the v-st closest to your join**(bphdc around v -st leg, hdc in ch-1 sp, bphdc around v-st leg) to ch-2, [3 sc, (bphdsc around v-st leg, hdc in ch-1 sp, bphdc around v-st leg) 59 times], 3 sc, (bphdc around v -st leg, hdc in ch-1 sp, bphdc around v-st leg) across, sl-st to first v-st, pull long loop. (59 hdc, 118 bphdc / 3 sc

Round 12(B) **start at bphdc closest to your join* ch-1, bphdc across, ch-1, sk-1 sc,  (3sc in corner sc, ch-1, sk-1 sc, bphdc 177, ch-1, sk-1 sc) 3 times, 3sc in corner, bphdc across, sl-st to first bphdc/hdc, ch-1, pull long loop (177 bphdc, 2 ch-1/ 3 sc)

Round 13(A): ch-1, bpsc across to ch-1 sp,sk ch-1, sc in sc, (3 sc in corner sp, sk ch-1 sp, bpsc 177, sk ch-1 sp, sc in sc) three times, 3 sc in corner sp,sk ch-1 sp, bpsc across, sl-st to first sc. ( 177 bpsc, 2 sc / 3sc)

Round 14 (B): ch-1, sc in each stitch across, 3 sc into each corner. (181 sc/ 3sc)

Section 3 Retrograde!

Getting ready to start!

Introducing Retrograde

Retrograde Section 1

Retrograde Section 2

Section 3

Retrograde  

Rounds 1-14

Color A (serpent)

Color B (Centaur)

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

Printer friendly version

Stitches

  • dc

  • X-st (Click for photo tutorial )

  • V-st (see stitches) –** link in final copy of pattern

  • V-st corner (see notes) **link in final copy

  • bphdc

  • Hdc

  • Sc

  • Bpsc

  • sp

Notes

  1. This section will create five rounds of the X-st.

  2. Round 1 has modified corners. The corner is worked over the three sc corner stitches from the last round of section 2. Dc in first sc, (dc, ch-2, dc) in center of corner, dc in last stitch. **photo tutorial in final copy

  3. Starting at the last corner made from Section 2, skipping corner stitches, and sc, place marker at the 37th bpsc.

  4. Start your round in any multiple of (3+1) **ask group for help. Final copy to have detailedin notes.

  5. X- st can start in any even chain space, or the last sc of the side.

  6. (DC, ch-1, Sk-1) sections start in the corner space, or in the first sc of any (sc 2) repeat

  7. Round 11 can start in the top of a X leg (DC)

  8. The border round with the (bphdc, hdc, bphdc) repeat varies from Section 1. It does not have the extra two hdcs between v-st.

  9. Odd rounds are counted from the right corner. Even rounds are counted from the left corner. Feel free to ask the group when needing help with counting.

  10. Notes in italics are only notes, not stitches.

  11. Count the sides of every round, every time. Or be okay with frogging. Or asking for help making mistakes work without frogging.

Pattern

Round 1(A):  ch-2, dc into stitch with stitch marker *see notes 3 + 4*, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 14 times, ch-1,sk-1, dc *see note 2* [ (dc, ch-2, dc) in center sc, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 27 times, ch-1, sk-1, dc]  3 times, (dc, ch-2, dc) in center sc, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 12 times, ch-1, sk-1, dc, sl-st to first dc, ch-1 (56 dc, 28 ch-1/ dc, ch-2, dc)

Round 2 (B): ch-3, **start X stitch in 9th skipped  stitch from the left*, (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 14 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 9 times, sc 2. (14  X-st, 30 sc/ 3 sc)

Round 3 (A): *start in the middle of the first sc of the 7th X-st* ch-3, dc into first sc inside X-st, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 15 times, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 29 times, ch-1) three times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 13 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to first dc made, pull long loop. (58 dc, 30 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 4 (B): ch-3, *start X stitch in the first leg of the x-stitch from round 2, see note 5) (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 15 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 10  times, sc 2. (15 X-st, 32 sc/ 3 sc)

**Rounds 5-10 are repeats of Rounds 3 + 4A***

Round 5 (A): *start in the first sc between 7th and 8th X, see note 6 * ch-3, dc 2 (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 16 times, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 31 times, ch-1) three times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 14 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to first dc made, pull long loop. (62 dc, 32 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 6 (B): *start X-st in the first leg of the fourth X from previous *, (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 16 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 11 times, sc 2. (16  X-st, 34 sc/ 3 sc)

Round 7 (A): *start in the first sc in the middle of the 8th X *  ch-3, dc into first sc inside X-st, dc,  (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 17 times, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 33 times, ch-1) three times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 15 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to first dc made, pull long loop. (66 dc, 34 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 8 (B): ch-3, *start x-st in the first leg of fourth X stitch from previous round*, (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 17 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 12 times, sc 2. (17 X-st, 36 sc/ 3 sc)

Round 9 (A): *start in the first sc between 8th and 9th X*,  ch-3, dc 2, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 18 times, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 35 times, ch-1) three times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in center sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 16 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to first dc made, pull long loop. 70 dc, 36 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 10(B): ch-3, *start x-st in the first leg of fourth X from previous round*, (X-st, sc 2) 5 times, [ 3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 18 times, sc 2] 3 times, (sc 2, X-st) 13 times, sc 2. (18  X-st, 38 sc/ 3 sc)

Round 11 (A): *start v-st in the first leg of the 9th  X, see note 7* ch-2, (v-st, sk-2) 19 times, v-st, sk-3, [v-st corner, sk-3, (v-st, sk-2) 36 times, sk-2, v-st, sk-3] 3 times, (v-st, sk-2) 16 times, sk-2, sl-st to first v-st, pull long loop. (36 v-st/ v-st corner)

Round 12 (B): *start hdc on the first leg of the 10th v-st, not including the corner stitches, or the first left of any—st * ch-2, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc in ch-1 sp, bphdc around second leg of v-st) 11 times, [3 sc in ch-2 space, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc in ch-1 sp, bphdc around second leg of v-st) 38 times] 3 times, 3sc in ch-2 sp, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc in ch-1 sp, bphdc around second leg of v-st) 27 times, sl-st to first bphdc. (38hdc, 76 bphdc/ 3sc)

Round 13 (A): ch-2, bphdc 63, ch-1, sk first sc of corner, (3sc in corner sc, ch-1, sk- last sc of corner, bphdc 114, ch-1, sk last sc of corner) 3 times, 3sc in corner, bphdc 51, sl-st to first hdc, (114 bphdc, 2 ch-1/ 3 sc)

Round 14 (B): ch-1, bpsc 33, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in first corner sc, (3 sc in center sc, sc in last corner sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 114, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in last corner sc) three times, 3sc in center sc, sc in last corner sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 81, sl-st to first bpsc. (114 bpsc, 4 sc/ 3 sc)

       END OF SECTION 3

Retrograde Section 2

Section 2
Retrograde

If you’d like a print friendly version for a small fee you can pick it up on my Etsy shop.

Color A

Color B

Stitch Marker

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

Stitches

  • ch

  • V-stitch (see Stitches)

  • V-stitch corner (see Stitches )

  • bphdc

  • Hdc

  • bpsc

  • sl-st

Notes

  1. If work becomes wavy go down a hook size or two

  2. Place stitch marker at the 24th sc from the center sc on Round 17 of Section 1

  3. If your join is off, you can start your V-st in any space that is a multiple of 3 (3,6,9,12,15,etc) starting your count on the stitch after the center sc of the corner.

  4. There will be 5 Rounds of V-st

  5. You’ll be working v-st into the ch-1 space of previous v-st

As alway, if you find yourself struggling reach out to min my Facebook group Shelby Shea’s Stitches CAL

If you are new to the pattern start here Introducing Retrograde

Section One can be found here Retrograde Section 1

Section 2

Color A

Color B

Stitch Marker

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

Stitches

Notes

  1. If work becomes wavy go down a hook size or two

  2. Place stitch marker at the 24th sc from the corner sc on Round 17 of Section 1

  3. If your join is off, you can start your V-st in any space that is a multiple of 3 (3,6,9,12,15,etc) starting your count on the stitch after the center sc of the corner.

  4. There will be 5 Rounds of V-st

  5. You’ll be working v-st into the ch-1 space of previous v-st

Pattern

Round 1 (A): Pull back loop, ch 2, v-st where the stitch marker is, (sk 2, v-st) 8 times, sk 2, [v-st corner, (sk 2, v-st) 16 times, sk 2] 3 times, v-st corner,  (sk 2, v-st) 7 times, join with a sl-st to first  v-st. Pull long loop ( 16 v-st / v-st corner)

Round 2 (B): pull back loop, ch 2, v-st into 13th v-st from previous round, v-st into the next 4 v-st, (v-st corner into ch-2 sp, v-st into the next 18 v-st) three times, v-st corner into ch 2 space, v-st into next 13 v-st, sl-st to first v-st. Pull long loop (18 v-st / v-st corner)

Rounds 3-5 :  Continue alternating colors and repeat the v-st pattern. V-stitches per side, not counting corners,  are as follows- Round 1 (16), Round 2 ( 18), Round 3 (20), Round 4 (22), Round 5 (24)

Round 6 (B) : ch 2, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc into ch-1 space,  bphdc around second leg of v-st) 9 times, [3 sc into ch-2 sp (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc into ch-1 space,  bphdc around second leg of v-st) 26 times], 3 sc, (bphdc around first leg of v-st, hdc into ch-1 space,  bphdc around second leg of v-st), 17 times, sl-st to first v-st, pull long loop. (26 hdc, 52 bphdc / 3sc)

Round 7 (A) pull loop back, ch-1, bphdc 41, ch-1, sk sc,  (3sc in corner sc, ch-1, sk sc, bphdc 78, ch-1, sk sc) 3 times, 3sc in corner, bphdc 36, sl-st to first hdc, ch-1, pull long loop (78 bphdc, 2 ch-1/ 3 sc)

Round 8 (B): Pull back loop, bpsc across to ch-1 sp, sc into ch-1 sp, sc in sc, (3 sc in corner sp, sc  in sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 78, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in sc) three times, 3 sc in corner sp, sc in sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc across, sl-st to first sc. ( 78 bpsc, 4 sc / 3sc

Retrograde Section 1

If you’d like a printer friendly version for a small charge you can grab it here. Section one

Section 1
Retrograde

Rounds 1-15

Color A (Centaur)

Color B (Serpant) X color

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

Stitches

Notes

  1. When switching between active yarns you may choose to pull a long loop, add a quick locking stitch marker, or both.
  2. There will be some pull to your X-st rounds. This will be corrected through out the blanket. If you feel your pull is too much, change out the dc to tc, or go up a hook size.
  3. When working into the join of the previous round, especially with the X-st, it will feel bulky and awkward.
  4. For X-st rounds starting at Round 3, all dc will be worked into previous round sc. No dc will be worked into in these rounds.
  5. Chains at the beginning to not count as stitches
  6. Stitch counts are per side, not per round
  7. You can substitute ch-4 loop for the starting magic ring

Pattern

Round 1(A): MR (the following stitches are done in the MR) sc, ch-2, (4dc, ch-2) 4 times, sl-st into first dc (4 dc / ch-2)               

Round 2(A): ch-1, (sc, ch-2, dc), dc, ch-1, sk-dc, [(2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into ch-2 corner space, ch-1, sk-dc, dc 2, ch-1, sk-dc] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into ch-2 corners space, ch-1, sl-st to first dc. Ch-1 and pull a long loop , attach a quick locking stitch maker for extra security when not using the yarn. (2 dc, 2 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 3(B): attach in the next corner stitch with a sc, 2sc in corner space, sc 2, X-st (Photo Tutorial), sc 2, [ (3 sc in corner space), sc 2, X-st, sc 2] 2 times, sc 2, **when working the next X-st, move passive yarn behind the working yarn, work the first sc into the top of the first dc, making the join on your right. The 2nd leg of the X will be a bulk and awkward fit. Don’t worry, it’ll hide itself in the work.** X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull up long loop. (1 X-st, 4 sc/ 3sc)

Round 4(A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), dc into first sc inside X-st, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1,  **you will be skipping the joined space. make sure passive is behind your active work** [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sk-1] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3 sc corner, ch-1 sk-1, dc 2, join with a sl-st to first dc. (6 dc, 4 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2 dc)

Round 5 (B): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), sc in first dc in corner, sc, [3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 2 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3sc into corner space, sc 2, X-st, sc into the dc of the join stitch **the join will be to the right of your work, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, sc, X-st, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull long loop. (2 X-st, 6 sc/ 3sc)

Round 6 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), dc into sc between the X-stitches, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, dc into sc of join **the join will move to the right of the work, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc, ch-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc into middle of 3 sc corner), (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 5 times, ch-1), (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in middle of 3sc corner, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2)] 3 times, ch-1, sl-st to first dc, ch-1 pull long loop. (10 dc, 6 ch-1/ 2 dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 7 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 3 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, sc 2, X-st, sc 2, X-st **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of X-st will be in the join space, sc into the top of the dc**, sc 2, sl-st to first dc, ch-1, pull long loop (3 X-st, 8 sc/ 3sc)

Round 8 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 chains total), dc into first sc of X-st, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1 **skip joining space, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 7 times, ch-1, sk-1] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sl-st to join to first dc, ch-1, pull long loop. (14 dc, 8 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2 dc)

Round 9 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) 4 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 3 times, **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of sc 2 will be in the dc if the join space** sc 2, X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull long loop

Round 10 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), dc into sc between the X-stitches, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 2 times, ch-1, sk- join dc, dc into sc after join **be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1,  [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc into middle of 3 sc corner), (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 9 times, ch-1, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in middle of 3sc corner, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sl-st to first dc, ch-1 pull long loop.

Round 11 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) 5 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 2 times, sc 2 **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of X-st will be in the join space, sc into the top of the dc**, X-st, sc 2, X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first X-st,, ch-1, pull long loop

Round 12 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 chains total), dc into first sc of X-st, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sk-1, **skip joining space, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 11 times, ch-1, sk-1] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 5 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to join to first dc, ch-1, pull long loop

Round 13 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) 6 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 3 times, **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of sc 2 will be in the dc if the join space** sc 2, X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull long loop

**Continue to be aware of keeping the passive yarn behind while working passed it. There will not be any more written reminders**

Round 14 (A): pull back loop, ch-1 (2 chains total), v-st into second leg of third X-st, (sk-2, v-st) 6 times, sk -3, [v-st corner, sk-3, (v-st, sk-2) 11 times, v-st, sk-3] 3 times, v-st corner, sk-3, (v-st, sk-2) 5 times, sl-st to first v-st, ch-1, pull long loop (12 v-st / v- st corner)

Round 15 (B): ** hdc are all worked in ch-1 space unless noted otherwise ** pull back loop, ch-1, bphdc on first leg of v-st, hdc, bpdc 2, hdc, bphdc, hdc in space between last v-st and corner st, bphdc, hdc, bphdc,  [ 3sc in ch-2 corner, bphdc, hdc, bphdc, hdc in space between corner v-st and first v-st, (bphdc, hdc, bphdc) 12 times, hdc in space between last v-st and corner v-st, bphdc,hdc, bphdc] 3 times, 3sc in ch-2 corner space, bphdc, hdc, bphdc, hdc in space between corner v-st and first v-stitch, (bphdc, hdc, bphdc) 10 times, sl- st to first hdc**do not work bphdc around chains, only around dc posts** (16 hdc, 28 bphdc/ 3 sc)

Round 16 (A): pull loop back, ch-1, bphdc 25, ch-1, sk-sc  (3sc in corner sc, ch-1, sk-sc, bphdc 44, ch-1, sk-sc) 3 times, 3sc in corner, bphdc 19, sl-st to first hdc, ch-1, pull long loop (44 bphdc, 2 ch-1/ 3 sc)

Round 17 (B): pull back loop, ch-1, bpsc 9, sc in ch-1 sp, sc, (3 sc in center sc, sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 44, sc in ch-1 sp, sc) three times, 3sc in center sc, sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 36, sl-st to first bpsc. (44 bpsc, 4 sc/ 3 sc)

       END OF SECTION 1