Dragon Scale CAL Pattern

logoWell it’s basically December. Christmas music has been playing since November 1st… yup we are THAT family. If it helps balance things out, I HATE decorating for holidays. Anyhooooo. Let’s start this off with a great gift idea. When I’m using the lighter weight yarns I can finish a set in just about 6 hours. During my busiest time I was cracking two and half sets a day.  For a printer friendly version Printer Friendly Version

Check out your Local  Yarn Shop or Website (Etsy is great), and splurge on a nicer hank of yarn for a lovely gift. My favorites are Madeline Tosh (check out that purple below!)  and Zauberballs.

MAD-TMLG.WINOFO
Madeline Tosh, Merino Light Glitter, Wino Forever

If you’d like an overview of yarns to help pick check out the last blog post Dragon scale gloves yarn overview . Feel free to post pictures of your stash, and I’ll help you find the perfect yarn!

mad tosh
Up to Round 21 using Madeline Tosh, Merino Light

Since I’m awful at transitional phrases here’s the pattern!

 

Materials

  • Knit Picks Chroma Fingering (396 yards) – Other yarns make great gloves, I just don’t know the exact yardage needed for each set. 
  • 4.5mm Hook
  • Needle
  • Scissors
pegasus
Knit Picks, Chroma Fingering, Pegasus

Notes

  • ✴Ch-2 at beginning of round does NOT count as first stitch. 
  • ✴To increase or decrease length of dragon scales adjust by adding or removing both repeat rounds. 
  • ✴Before starting Round 1 close up the circle by using the starting tail. Weaving in the tail will keep it out of your way. 
  • ✴Adjust rounds 21-43 to match the desired arm length. 
  • ✴If the arm ends up too tight do not decrease in round 20. If the arm is too loose, add another decrease in round 22.
  • ✴To increase or decrease length of fingers/scales adjust by adding or removing both repeat rounds. 
  • ✴Round 16 (and beyond) there are not any ch-1 spaces. You’ll be working the spaces between the clusters. Feel free to add the ch-1 space if it works better with your tension. 
sweet baby hobby lobby
Baby Bee, Sweet Delight, Toy Elephant  Marbled

Stitches

Definitions

  • ✴CH – chain
  • ✴FSC- foundation single crochet 
  • ✴SL-ST  – slip stitch
  • ✴DC – double crochet
  • ✴SK- skip
  • ✴SP- space 
  • ✴Scale space – the space in the middle of the scale, in between the first and   last DC 
  • ✴ directions inside of *…* indicate notes, not directions. 
fall colors
Knit Picks, Chroma Fingering

Stitches

  • FSC– ch-2, insert hook into first ch-sp, (yarn over, pull through one loop) X 2, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, insert hook into “v” that is to the left of your active yarn,[ (yarn over, pull through one loop) X 2, yarn over, pull through 2 loops,] repeat until desired number of stitches. 
  • Crocodile stitch– working on the posts of DC stitches- 5 DC on post of first DC from previous round *you’ll be working from top down*, ch-4, sl-st to the side of last DC made, turn work, 5 DC along the post of 2nd DC from previous round *you’ll be working from the bottom up
  • DC2tog– yarn over, insert hook into same space, pull up, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook into next space, pull up, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through all three loops. 
  • ✴ch-4 picot- sc, ch-4, sl-st to side of sc
shawl in a cake
Lion Brand, Shawl in a Cake, Unique Unicorn

PATTERN 

FSC 30, slip stitch to join. Make sure not to twist your yarn when joining

ROUND 1: Ch-2, 2DC in same stitch as joining, (ch-2, sk-2, 2DC )X9 , ch-2 slip stitch in first DC to join [10 2DC clusters, 10 ch-2 sp]

ROUND 2: ch-2, (crocodile stitch, ch-1, sk-2DC) X 5, sl-st joining the ch-2 space from current round to ch-2 sp of previous round. [5 scales, 5 ch-1 sp]

ROUND 3: ch-2, sl-st into middle space of scale, ch-2, (2DC in center of scale, ch-2, 2DC in between 2DC from two previous rows and over ch-1 sp from previous row, ch-2) x 5, sl st to join. [10 DC clusters, 10 ch-2 sp]

ROUND 4:  ch-1, sl-st between 2DC , ch-1, sl-st in ch-2 sp, ch-1, sl-st between 2DC , ch-2,  (crocodile stitch, ch-1, sk-2dc) X 5, sl-st joining the ch-2 space from current round to ch-2 sp of previous round. [5 scales, 5 ch-1 sp]

*Rounds 5-12 are repeats of rounds 3 +4 for a total of 6 rounds of scales. * 

ROUND 5: repeat round 3

ROUND 6: repeat round 4

ROUND 7: repeat round 3

ROUND 8: repeat round 4

ROUND 9: repeat round 3

ROUND 10: repeat round 4

ROUND 11: repeat round 3

ROUND 12:  repeat round 4

ROUND 13: *this round is where the thumb is made* ch-2, 3sc in scale space, ch-1, 3 sc in between 2DC of previous round, ch-1, 3sc in scale sp, fsc 9, sk 2DC, (3sc in scale sp, ch-1, 3sc in between 2DC of previous round, ch-1) X 3, sl st in first sc. [27 sc, 8 ch-1 , 9 fsc]

ROUND 14: ch-2, (3DC in 2nd sc of 3sc) X 3,( sk-2 fdsc, 3DC ) X 3,( 3DC in 2nd SC of 3SC) X 6, sl-st to first DC to join. [12 3DC clusters]

ROUND 15: ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3DC in between 3DC-sp) X 12, sl-st to first DC to join [12 3-DC clusters]

ROUND 16: {decrease round} ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3-DC in between clusters) X 5, DC2tog in next two cluster sp , 2DC in same space, (3-DC in next cluster sp) X 5, sl-st to first DC to join. [11 DC clusters]

ROUND 17: ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2,(3-DC in between clusters) X 11, sl-st to first DC to join. [11 DC clusters]

ROUND 18: {decrease round} ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in space between 3DC clusters , ch-2, (3-DC between clusters) X 5, DC2tog in next two cluster sp, 2-DC in same space, (3-DC in between clusters)X 4, sl-st to first DC to join. [10 DC clusters]

ROUND 19: ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3-DC in between clusters) X 11, sl-st to first DC to join. [10 DC clusters]

ROUND 20: {decrease round}  ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3-DC in between clusters) X 5, DC2tog in next two cluster sp , 2DC in same space, (3-DC in next cluster sp) X 3, sl-st to first DC to join. [9 DC clusters]

ROUND 21-43: ch-1, sk-1 dc, sl-st in next 2 dc , sl-st in space between 3DC clusters, ch-2, (3-DC in between clusters) X 9, sl-st to first DC to join [9 DC clusters]

ROUND 44 ch-1, (sc, ch-1) in each st across, sl-st to first sc to join [27 sc, 27 ch-1 sp]

ROUND 45 ch-1, (ch-4 picot, ch-1, sc, ch-1) X 12, ch-4 picot, ch-1, sc2tog, sl-st in first sc to join [13 ch-4 picot, 13 ch-1 sp]

Cut yarn and finish off.

grays
Knit Picks, Chroma Fingering, Fog Bank
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Retrograde Section 1

If you’d like a printer friendly version for a small charge you can grab it here. Section one

Section 1
Retrograde

Rounds 1-15

Color A (Centaur)

Color B (Serpant) X color

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5mm

Stitches

Notes

  1. When switching between active yarns you may choose to pull a long loop, add a quick locking stitch marker, or both.
  2. There will be some pull to your X-st rounds. This will be corrected through out the blanket. If you feel your pull is too much, change out the dc to tc, or go up a hook size.
  3. When working into the join of the previous round, especially with the X-st, it will feel bulky and awkward.
  4. For X-st rounds starting at Round 3, all dc will be worked into previous round sc. No dc will be worked into in these rounds.
  5. Chains at the beginning to not count as stitches
  6. Stitch counts are per side, not per round
  7. You can substitute ch-4 loop for the starting magic ring

Pattern

Round 1(A): MR (the following stitches are done in the MR) sc, ch-2, (4dc, ch-2) 4 times, sl-st into first dc (4 dc / ch-2)               

Round 2(A): ch-1, (sc, ch-2, dc), dc, ch-1, sk-dc, [(2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into ch-2 corner space, ch-1, sk-dc, dc 2, ch-1, sk-dc] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into ch-2 corners space, ch-1, sl-st to first dc. Ch-1 and pull a long loop , attach a quick locking stitch maker for extra security when not using the yarn. (2 dc, 2 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 3(B): attach in the next corner stitch with a sc, 2sc in corner space, sc 2, X-st (Photo Tutorial), sc 2, [ (3 sc in corner space), sc 2, X-st, sc 2] 2 times, sc 2, **when working the next X-st, move passive yarn behind the working yarn, work the first sc into the top of the first dc, making the join on your right. The 2nd leg of the X will be a bulk and awkward fit. Don’t worry, it’ll hide itself in the work.** X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull up long loop. (1 X-st, 4 sc/ 3sc)

Round 4(A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), dc into first sc inside X-st, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1,  **you will be skipping the joined space. make sure passive is behind your active work** [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sk-1] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3 sc corner, ch-1 sk-1, dc 2, join with a sl-st to first dc. (6 dc, 4 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2 dc)

Round 5 (B): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), sc in first dc in corner, sc, [3 sc in corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 2 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3sc into corner space, sc 2, X-st, sc into the dc of the join stitch **the join will be to the right of your work, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, sc, X-st, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull long loop. (2 X-st, 6 sc/ 3sc)

Round 6 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), dc into sc between the X-stitches, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, dc into sc of join **the join will move to the right of the work, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc, ch-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc into middle of 3 sc corner), (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 5 times, ch-1), (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in middle of 3sc corner, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2)] 3 times, ch-1, sl-st to first dc, ch-1 pull long loop. (10 dc, 6 ch-1/ 2 dc, ch-2, 2dc)

Round 7 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 3 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, sc 2, X-st, sc 2, X-st **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of X-st will be in the join space, sc into the top of the dc**, sc 2, sl-st to first dc, ch-1, pull long loop (3 X-st, 8 sc/ 3sc)

Round 8 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 chains total), dc into first sc of X-st, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1 **skip joining space, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 7 times, ch-1, sk-1] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sl-st to join to first dc, ch-1, pull long loop. (14 dc, 8 ch-1/ 2dc, ch-2, 2 dc)

Round 9 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) 4 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 3 times, **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of sc 2 will be in the dc if the join space** sc 2, X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull long loop

Round 10 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 total chains), dc into sc between the X-stitches, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 2 times, ch-1, sk- join dc, dc into sc after join **be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1,  [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc into middle of 3 sc corner), (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 9 times, ch-1, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) in middle of 3sc corner, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sl-st to first dc, ch-1 pull long loop.

Round 11 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) 5 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 2 times, sc 2 **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of X-st will be in the join space, sc into the top of the dc**, X-st, sc 2, X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first X-st,, ch-1, pull long loop

Round 12 (A): pull loop back, ch-1 (2 chains total), dc into first sc of X-st, dc, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 3 times, ch-1, sk-1, **skip joining space, be sure to keep passive yarn behind your work**, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, dc 2, ch-1, sk-1, [ (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 11 times, ch-1, sk-1] 3 times, (2dc, ch-2, 2dc) into middle of 3sc corner space, (ch-1, sk-1, dc 2) 5 times, ch-1, sk-1, sl-st to join to first dc, ch-1, pull long loop

Round 13 (B): pull loop back, ch- 2 (3 total chains), starting X-st in space before corner, sc 2, [3sc into corner space, (sc 2, x-st) 6 times, sc 2] 3 times, 3 sc into corner space, (sc 2, X-st) 3 times, **keep passive yarn behind your work, first sc of sc 2 will be in the dc if the join space** sc 2, X-st, sc 2, sl-st to first sc, ch-1, pull long loop

**Continue to be aware of keeping the passive yarn behind while working passed it. There will not be any more written reminders**

Round 14 (A): pull back loop, ch-1 (2 chains total), v-st into second leg of third X-st, (sk-2, v-st) 6 times, sk -3, [v-st corner, sk-3, (v-st, sk-2) 11 times, v-st, sk-3] 3 times, v-st corner, sk-3, (v-st, sk-2) 5 times, sl-st to first v-st, ch-1, pull long loop (12 v-st / v- st corner)

Round 15 (B): ** hdc are all worked in ch-1 space unless noted otherwise ** pull back loop, ch-1, bphdc on first leg of v-st, hdc, bpdc 2, hdc, bphdc, hdc in space between last v-st and corner st, bphdc, hdc, bphdc,  [ 3sc in ch-2 corner, bphdc, hdc, bphdc, hdc in space between corner v-st and first v-st, (bphdc, hdc, bphdc) 12 times, hdc in space between last v-st and corner v-st, bphdc,hdc, bphdc] 3 times, 3sc in ch-2 corner space, bphdc, hdc, bphdc, hdc in space between corner v-st and first v-stitch, (bphdc, hdc, bphdc) 10 times, sl- st to first hdc**do not work bphdc around chains, only around dc posts** (16 hdc, 28 bphdc/ 3 sc)

Round 16 (A): pull loop back, ch-1, bphdc 25, ch-1, sk-sc  (3sc in corner sc, ch-1, sk-sc, bphdc 44, ch-1, sk-sc) 3 times, 3sc in corner, bphdc 19, sl-st to first hdc, ch-1, pull long loop (44 bphdc, 2 ch-1/ 3 sc)

Round 17 (B): pull back loop, ch-1, bpsc 9, sc in ch-1 sp, sc, (3 sc in center sc, sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 44, sc in ch-1 sp, sc) three times, 3sc in center sc, sc, sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc 36, sl-st to first bpsc. (44 bpsc, 4 sc/ 3 sc)

       END OF SECTION 1

Introducing Retrograde

 

Retrograde Notes

Materials:

  • 3 Cakes Mandala by Lion Brand or 1700 yards of sport weight yarn
  • 2 Big Scoop Ice Cream by Lion Brand or 1700 yards of sport weight yarn
  • Crochet hooks (3 sizes) 4.5mm, 5 mm, 5.5 mm – or sizes to obtain flatness
  • Scissors
  • Needle to weave ends
  • Moveable stitch markers (optional)

 

Notes:

  1. Both colors are worked continuously, if you like cut the yarn each round and start in a corner just start any of the directions at a corner space.
  2. For the passive yarn pull a long loop to keep from stitches coming unravelled. You can use a stitch marker in place if you prefer.
  3. When working over the passive yarn, keep the loop and the tail behind your active work.
  4. Keep the tension loose with X-st, if you find your work is pulling you can either swap out those DCs for TCs, or go up on hook sizes.
  5. X-st sections are used with your biggest hook.
  6. V-st sections are sued with your smallest hook.
  7. The transition between the sections is hooked with your medium hook.
  8. If you notice your work is pulling in go up one or two hook sizes until it lays flat.
  9. If you notice your work is wavy, go down one or two hook sizes.
  10. It’s worth ripping out and finding your hook sweet spot. Your work will lay flat and you’ll enjoy it more. 🙂

 

Definitions

  • **…..** – italicized notes between the ** are notes about that specific part, and aren’t steps
  • MR- magic ring
  • SC- single crochet
  • Ch- chain
  • sl-st – slip stitch
  • MC- main color
  • CC- contrasting color
  • X-st – X stitch (explained below)
  • V-st – V Stitch (explained below)
  • bphdc – back post half double crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • bpsc – back post single crochet
  • sp- space

 

Stitches

X-Stitch – 4 stitch pattern as described below

(Use either dc or trc depending on your stitching style. It might be better for tighter crocheters to

consider using tc here. Skip 2 dc stitches in previous round, keeping yarn in front create a loose dc into the second

stitch that was skipped two rounds back (NOTE: the stitch is made in the “gap” from the sk st and ch 1 of

the previous round), return back up to current round and sc in next 2 st (the two dc that were skipped at

start of X-Stitch), create a loose dc back across into the first stitch that was skipped two rounds back

(making an “X” with the two dc stitches)

(NOTE: You will have to insert your hook from “back to front” to catch the top of the stitch in

the lower round and then yo and pull it back up to finish off your dc.)

 

X-st photo tutorial

A video tutorial will be available soon!

V-stitch (dc,ch-1, dc) in the same space

V-st corner (v-st, ch-2, v-st)

 

 

Related Posts:

Section 1

Mother’s Day Blanket

For years I have wanted to make a blanket for my Mom. Nothing ever seemed quite good enough. I finally took the challenge head on and started designing one from the resources I have.
I took squares from Jan Eaton’s 200 Crochet Blocks, a join from an online tutorial and a border for Edie Eckman’s Around the Corner.
The blanket turned out soft, elegant and feminine.

Yarn: Vanna’s Choice
Colors: Beige, Pink, Dusty Blue, Dusty Green, Dusty Purple, Oatmeal, Espresso
books: 200 Crochet Blocks by Jan Eaton (order here) and Around The Corner by Edie Eckmans (order here)
Join: Flat- Braid no hook out method (tutorial here)

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Block 189:Willow- Dusty Blue/ Beige

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Block 189: Willow- Pink/ Beige

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Block 189: Willow- Dusty Green/ Beige

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Block 19: Lacy Cross- Oatmeal

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Join- Espresso

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Border: (will get the number soon)- Dusty Purple / Espresso

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What goes into making a blanket: part one

What exactly goes into making a blanket ? Most know yarn is involved, maybe a couple of those pointed sticks, but what does it really mean to make a blanket.

I am going to use a recent baby blanket I made for a co-worker as an example. As soon as I hear someone is expecting my brain starts planning. I wonder what colors they will use for their baby. Will they find out the gender? What is their general style? I start researching patterns for possibilities.

Colors are next. I was lucky enough to see a picture of the nursery and was able to decide on these colors.

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Now that I have the colors I can finalize the pattern. I used a mix of parents style and nursery theme. I picked Promise Petals, a free pattern at Ravelry.

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Now the fun starts. I decided the final blanket would be a 4 X 3 quilt style. I cranked out 12 squares in a couple weeks. For this square it made more sense to make it in an assembly line.

Center flowers first

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I didn’t snap pictures of the squares with the background added. Each full square took roughly an hour to make.

Next I joined the squares. Which is another two or so hours.

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I picked out a pretty border. Another couple of hours. Then it’s ready for the wash.

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Not the best picture, but here she is all done. Ready for Baby Girl Munson to make her debut in a few weeks.

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My blankets are, usually, one of a kind, and customizable. I don’t follow one specific blanket pattern , but pull from several resources.

My first pattern!

With the help of some wonderful women, I have my first official pattern named “KISS-FIST”.

Where does KISS-FIST come from? If you make a fist then kiss the back of your hand it means something in American Sign Language. Roughly, it’s the concept of loving something that goes beyond just the word love.

In any event, here is the pattern. Link it to your Ravelry page if you have one. I would love to see your work!

KISS-FIST by Shelby Shea

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Ravellenics 2012 event wip blue lagoon

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Day one of Ravellenics 2012

Today J and I went to Kingston on a date day. We packed up of bags and headed towards the ferry. I brought with me a couple skeins of navy yarn and my project book.

I patiently waited until 1pm, the official start time of the Olympic Opening Ceremonies, to cast on the first square.

I love being a passenger! Between the car and the ferry I was able to finish 6 filler squares.

Watching the olympics I finished bordering the rest of then swap squares from blue lagoon. Is now deciding what squares are going to which blanket.

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WIP Round-up

Wow! I just sat down and wrote out a list of all the blankets I have started and plan to gift within the next year. I have 7 blankets, 7 swap blankets, and 3 baby blankets. I have 6 more planned to go out by next May! Busy bee.

Blankets: In order to keep some recipients a surprise I will code name some of the blankets.

Kelly and Mark’s wedding Babette I am beyond words on how late this blanket is. Their two year wedding anniversary is coming up in now time. I might just have to mail it out to them in order for them to get it by their anniversary.
For Phil I was hoping to gift this one for her birthday but that was last weekend. I am more than 2/3 of the way with all the joining. I am working on it non-stop until the opening ceremonies of the Olympics.
Ravellenics blankets Whenever there is a large sporting event Ravelry will host their own version of the games. Knitters, cricketers, spinners and various other skills set their own personal goals. This is done to build community, competition, and to challenge your own squares. My project for the games will be to use up my squares from one of my swaps to make 3 blankets. I will be bordering each square, making 24 filler squares, joining and bordering each blanket withing the time of the Olympics. Will you be watching?
Comfort’ghan there are times in everyone’s life when you could use a blanket to wrap yourself in and feel as if several friends are wrapping their arms around you. A family is in need of a few extra hugs. A total of 5 blankets are being made for a family in need of many, many hugs. I have agreed to take the work of other crocheters and join their squares into one of the blankets. It’s truly amazing the love and positive energy you can feel from these squares.
baby stars I am making a couple of star blankets for siblings. The baby shower is next month which means I should have then done sooner, not later.

Is that enough for now?? I really can’t help myself once I get started with ideas. I just need more hours in the day to make all my ideas happen.

The journey of Roz’s Daisy Blanket

My current finished project is setting in the dryer right now. A co-worker saw the colorful daisy blanket I made and asked if I would make one for her niece. She decided on a soft green background, deep purple for the petals, and a soft cream for join.image

This blanket had quite the journey. When J and I went to Hawaii in June I made sure to pack my yarn. By the time I left Hawaii I had 3/4 of the squares finished.

I finished joining and bordering the blanket a month ago. It sat in my almost done pile since last night. Between Phil’s blanket and the ravellenics I didn’t quite finish it. I get so exited about a new project that I put off weaving the ends until the very end. Why I don’t take care of them right away is beyond me.

The good news is she is ready to go to her new home.

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